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How to Change an Ignition Coil
You may find it shocking to hear, but ignition coils don’t last forever. For the most part, ignition coils are extremely simple components, but they can break down as time passes. If your vehicle’s engine is running rough or you aren’t getting the same power or gas mileage as in the past, it is possibly time for a replacement ignition coil. Here’s what you need to know about the different types of ignition coils and how to replace them. Types of Ignition Coils Before you pick up a wrench, you need to figure out what kind of automotive coil is in your vehicle’s ignition. Here are examples of each major type of ignition coil: There are other coil types and shapes in use, but these are the most common ones you will find on the shelf of your local NAPA Auto Parts store. How to Change a Single Can/Block Coil Commonly found on classic cars, a single standalone canister or block coil sit on the engine itself or nearby on the vehicle chassis. It will have a single coil wire leading to the ignition distributor cap. Changing a standalone coil is about as simple as an automotive job gets. Turn off the engine. Locate the ignition coil. Remove the center coil wire from the top of the ignition coil. Remove the power wires connected to the coil. Typically, there is a positive and a negative wire connection. Make sure to note the wire connections. For example, you can mark the positive wire with red tape and the negative wire with black tape. Loosen the coil mounting bracket clamp. Slide the old coil out of the mounting bracket. Insert the new ignition coil. Reconnect the positive and negative wires. Reconnect the center coil wire. Start the engine to verify the repair. If the engine does not start, check all the electrical connections. How to Change an HEI Coil GM vehicles from the late-1970s to the 1980s used a single coil mounted directly to the top of the distributor cap. This made packaging a little tidier plus created for a very simple ignition solution. Turn off the engine. Locate the distributor. Remove the ignition coil cover by loosening the mounting screws. The ignition coil and wiring are now exposed. Note the location of the positive and negative ignition coil power leads inside the distributor cap. We recommend taking a picture with a cell phone or marking each wire with a piece of tape.You may also have a ground wire connected to one of the corner mounting bolts. Note its location as well and how it is attached. Some coils use a solid metal ground bracket, which sits under the coil and can only connect one way. Unplug the ignition coil power leads gently by lifting them straight up. You may need to use needle nose pliers if they have remained in place a long time. Make sure to only pull on the power lead spade connectors, not the wires themselves. Remove the coil retaining bolts. Lift the coil straight up for removal. Note that the coil has a contactor on the bottom allowing it to contact the spring connected to the rotor button below. Place the new coil inside the distributor cap, making sure the coil is seated with the wires facing the right direction. Slide the ignition coil power leads straight down into the distributor cap, making sure they are in the same location as you marked previously. Connect the ground wire, if so equipped. Reinstall the coil retaining bolts. Reinstall the ignition coil cover. Start the engine to verify the repair. If the engine does not start, check all the electrical connections. How to Change a Coil Pack Some vehicles, like 1990s GM and Ford vehicles, have coil packs located away from the spark plugs. However, spark plug wires are still used to pass electricity to each spark plug. A coil pack can have multiple output connections. Changing ignition coil packs isn’t too bad of a job if they are in an accessible area. Turn off the engine. Locate the faulty coil pack. Mark the spark plug wires. You can use painter’s tape and a marker or a silver paint pen to write directly on the spark plug wire boots. Or choose your own method. The important part is that you MUST connect the spark plug wires to the new coil pack in the exact location. Disconnect any other wires or connectors from the coil pack. Remove the coil pack mounting hardware (screws, bolts, etc.). Remove the old coil pack from its mounting surface. Install the new coil pack on the mounting surface. Reinstall mounting hardware (screws, bolts, etc.). Reinstall all wires, including spark plug wires. Start the engine to verify the repair. If the engine does not start, check all the electrical connections. How to Change a Coil-On-Plug Modern vehicles most commonly use a coil-on-plug arrangement where each individual engine cylinder has its own ignition coil connected directly to the spark plug. Technically, there is still a spark plug wire, it is just very short and you can replace it separately from the coil pack. Turn off the engine. Locate the faulty coil pack or packs. Keep in mind that some coil packs are possibly buried underneath the intake manifold or other engine components, making access difficult. If your engine is particularly difficult to access, you may consider replacing several coils at once. Repairs like this are labor heavy, so you might as well take care of any other potential issues like leaking valve covers or changing spark plugs now. Unplug the coil pack connector, taking care to not damage it as engine bay heat can make plastic brittle. Inspect the coil pack connector, taking care to remove any corrosion you find. Remove the coil pack mounting hardware (screws, bolts, etc.). With the coil pack now unplugged and loose, gently twist it back and forth to loosen any corrosion at the spark plug boot. If the coil pack will not turn, do not force it and move on to the next step. Gently lift the old coil pack straight up and away from the spark plug. Apply a light amount of dielectric grease to the end of the spark plug boot to help make future removal easier. Do not apply dielectric grease to the metal contacts. Insert the new coil pack until the spark plug boot is seated on the spark plug terminal. You may feel a “click” as the connection is made, but not always. Reinstall mounting hardware (screws, bolts, etc.). Reattach the coil pack connector. Reinstall any engine components that were removed to access the coil pack. Start the engine to verify the repair. If the engine does not start, check all the electrical connections, hoses and any other components that were removed. What to Do After Changing Ignition Coil Parts After changing ignition coil parts, let the engine warm up and go for a normal drive. The engine should run smoother than it did previously. If your car shakes after changing ignition coil components or the check engine light comes on, shut it off and retrace your steps. You will likely find a loose connector. How Often to Change Ignition Coils For most engines, there is no set mileage or set time for replacing ignition coils. If you are wondering how often to change ignition coils, the answer is pretty simple—when one wears out and starts causing a problem.
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How Often Should You Get Your Car Serviced?
We depend on our cars to provide reliable service, but for this to happen, car owners must live up to their end of the bargain. You need to make sure your car gets the maintenance needed for optimal performance. With that in mind, how often should you get your car serviced? Let’s take a look. Recommended Maintenance Many newer vehicles have a maintenance reminder system on the dashboard that lets you know when it’s time for services like oil changes, filter replacements and fluid level checks. These systems track mileage, but they also consider the conditions under which your car is being operated to give a more accurate picture of what service is needed and when. If your car has one of these maintenance reminder systems, use it as a guide for scheduling service visits. If your car doesn’t have maintenance reminders or wants to better understand the indicators, you can consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual. This manual contains recommended service intervals for all the maintenance your car needs to live a healthy and productive life. What Does a Typical Service Schedule Look Like? Service schedules vary from one vehicle to the next, so it’s essential to consult your owner’s manual for your car’s specific needs. Typically, the recommended service intervals for these common repairs fall in these ranges: Oil: change every 3,000 to 10,000 miles Battery: replace every five years Automatic transmission: change fluid and the filter every 60,000 miles Timing belt: change every four or five years Air filter: replace every 15,000 to 20,000 miles Fuel filter: replace every 30,000 miles Steering: flush the steering system every 30,000 miles Spark plugs: change every 40,000 miles Tires: rotate every 6,000 miles Tune-up: every 12,000 miles or once a year for cars that don’t have an electronic ignition; every 25,000 to 100,000 miles for a newer vehicle with an electronic ignition You can handle some of these tasks, like changing the oil and replacing the air filter, at home in your garage. But others, like changing the fuel filter, may be too tricky to handle on your own unless you have specialized experience. Is It Always Necessary to Perform the Recommended Service? It’s a good idea to schedule service visits as often as recommended in your car’s owner’s manual. Your mechanic will be able to check all the maintenance items suggested above and more as well as any performance concerns unique to your vehicle. Some mechanics may recommend intervals that are more frequent than the ones listed in your manual. If the mechanic’s guidance differs dramatically from the guidance given in the manual, ask about the reasons behind the disparity. Your mechanic may have noticed increased wear from severe operating conditions. How Often Should You Get Your Car Serviced in Severe Operating Conditions? Some cars operate in conditions that can increase wear and tear. For example, driving in weather that’s extremely hot or cold can tax a vehicle. So can towing or sustained stop-and-go driving. If you drive in these severe operating conditions, your car will likely require more frequent maintenance. Consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual for guidance. The manual will describe which conditions qualify as severe and list the intervals required for proper care. A car breakdown can be inconvenient and dangerous, but proper vehicle maintenance can prevent this from happening.
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What does an Ignition Coil-on-Plug coil do for your engine?
In Coil-on-Plug (COP) technology, since each cylinder has a coil, the PCM controls individual cylinder firings for more precise ignition timing, reduced emissions and better fuel economy. Where are these Ignition Coil-on-Plugs located? The Coil-on-Plug coil is usually mounted on the top of the cylinder head just above the spark plug. The coil is connected to the spark plug with a stainless steel spring connector and protective insulating boot. Will a malfunctioning Coil-on-Plug illuminate the check engine light or affect vehicle operation? Yes, a failing Coil-on-Plug can illuminate the MIL, and is likely to create an engine misfire condition. What are the common causes of failure? Typically the COP coils fail due to exposure to high heat moisture and oil as they are mounted on top of the engine. The coil windings can fail due to the large flow of amperage How to determine if Coil-on-Plugs are malfunctioning. The output of the Coil-on-Plug coil can be determined by inserting a spark tester into the coil boot and cranking the engine over. Occasionally the wiring to the coil or the PCM can fail therefore the primary circuit to the coil should be checked for proper voltage and computer control.
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Car Brakes for Dummies: 9 Things You Should Know
You step on the brake pedal and the car stops. Seems simple enough, right? You don’t have to be a professional to understand a brake system. In fact, knowing a few things about how they work can help keep you safe. Here are a few things every driver should know about traditional car brakes. How Car Brakes Work Hydraulics: When you step on the brakes, the brake pedal lever amplifies the force of your foot to compress the hydraulic system. The master cylinder acts like a pump using a piston to push against the brake fluid. Pressure builds in the master cylinder, which is transmitted to the brake calipers or wheel cylinders via rigid brake lines and flexible hoses. The system is a closed system, that is, brake fluid doesn’t enter or leave. If you notice low-fluid level, but not below the “low” mark, do not top it off, but inspect your brake pads and shoes for wear. If the fluid goes below the low mark, you may have a brake-fluid leak, which should be checked and repaired immediately. Friction: The actual stopping work of a brake system is done by friction material bonded to a disc brake pad or drum brake shoe. For disc brakes the brake rotor is squeezed by a caliper (looks like a clamp) holding a brake pad on each side. The squeezing forces the brake pads against the rotor and stops the vehicle. For drum brakes a pair of half-moon shaped brake shoes are pushed against the inside of the brake drum by an actuator called a wheel cylinder. The brake shoes are forced outward against the brake drum to stop the vehicle. Boosting: Your foot pressure alone is not enough to stop your car safely, which is why it’s boosted, often vacuum boosted. Some older cars used hydraulic boosting, taking pressure from the power steering pump, while newer cars use an electronic booster. All three systems multiply the force you can put into the brakes, making it easier for you to stop your car safely. Keep in mind, even if you’ve heard it will save gas, don’t turn off your car to coast down that long hill. Downshift instead. All three brake boosting methods need to car to be running in order to work correctly. Anti-Lock Brakes: When you’re learning to drive in the rain and snow, you’re often told to pump the brakes to keep the car from going into a skid — and this used to be true of older cars. Anti-lock braking systems (ABS), standard on most cars since the mid-1980s, have eliminated the need for pumping the brakes. Instead, the ABS module uses wheel-speed sensors look for a wheel locking up, using a high-seed solenoid valve to temporarily reduce pressure on that wheel. In this case the wheel doesn’t lock up and you can maintain control of your vehicle. The ABS system can do this far faster than any driver can pump their foot. The result is a controlled stop which keeps the tires at maximum grip without locking up. It is worth mentioning that many hybrid and almost all electric vehicles use some sort of regenerative braking. Regenerative braking uses the electric motor as a brake to slow down the vehicle. It turns the motor into a generator so that the braking energy is put back into the battery pack and not wasted. For now though even these electrified vehicles still rely on a traditional hydraulic braking system. Troubleshooting Noise: Generally speaking, you should not hear any noise when using the brakes on your car. If you hear any noises at all — squeaking, squealing, grinding, knocking, whining, groaning — have your brakes checked immediately. Keep in mind, emergency braking or hard braking on loose surfaces may engage the ABS system, which has an activation noise that has been described as grinding, buzzing or groaning. Vibration: When you step on the brake pedal, you should feel constant pressure feedback from the system. If you feel pulsation in your foot or vibration in the vehicle or steering wheel, you may have a rotor or drum problem, sometimes caused by overheating. If you feel a vibration, have your brake system checked. Note, though, that ABS activation is often accompanied by pedal vibration, which is normal. Hard Pedal: If your brake pedal is harder to push than normal you may have a problem with the brake booster system. You can get a feel for what unassisted brake pedal effort feels like by simply pressing the brake pedal a few times with the vehicle shut off. The stored power assist pressure will be exhaust and you should feel the pedal become harder to push. Now you have a base line of comparison. Soft Pedal: Air in the brake system is the most likely source of a soft brake pedal. Since brake fluid cannot be compressed but air can, the brake pedal feels soft. This can be fixed by a thorough bleeding of the brake fluid. Low Pedal: If your brake pedal goes to the floor or close to it, you may have low brake fluid. Check your brake fluid reservoir (usually found on top of the master cylinder, but not always so check your owner’s manual) and add fluid if it is low. You may also have a faulty master cylinder which is allowing brake fluid escape past the internal piston. If the brake pedal starts off normal and slowly descends to the floor, the master cylinder is a likely culprit.
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Your ABS Brake System: What Does it Do, Exactly?
When learning to drive on slippery surfaces, many of us were taught years ago that we should pump the brakes to prevent going into a skid. Of course, that was before the anti-lock brake system (ABS) was commonplace on passenger vehicles. If you have an older non-ABS equipped model, keep pumping those brakes! On the other hand, if you drive one of the hundreds of models that are equipped with ABS, here’s a little background on exactly what it is, what it does, and some tips about whether having ABS should affect how you drive. ABS History Early versions of ABS were used mainly in the aircraft industry and experimental race cars. Aircraft equipped with ABS were able to stop far better and also were less prone to destroying tires upon landing. But it wasn’t until the British built 1966 Jensen FF grand touring coupe that ABS was fitted to a production road going car. These early systems were controlled mechanically using various convoluted methods to monitor things like wheel speed and brake pedal pressure. While clever and effective, there was still room for improvement. The modern electronic controlled automotive anti-lock brake system (ABS) was invented in the 1970s and is standard on many models today. The first car sold in the United States with a modern computer controlled four-wheel ABS was the 1971 Imperial. This was a big deal because some early systems only controlled rear wheel brake lockup instead of all four wheels. But it wasn’t until the 1980s that ABS became a common sight on passenger vehicles, with much broader adoption as standard equipment in the 1990s. Rear wheel only ABS was still a thing even into the 90s but mostly for pickup trucks and vans. It wasn’t until 2012 that ABS became a mandatory feature of every new car sold in the United States, even though it was highly rare to find a vehicle without it by then. ABS Brake System Description Normally, on a good dry road surface, optimal braking occurs when the amount of friction in the brakes is just shy of the amount of friction between the tires and the road. On a slippery road, however, there’s far less friction between the tires and the road, which means that you can’t apply that much friction in the brakes. This can be a problem if you need to come to a stop quickly. Because the friction in the brakes exceeds that of the tires, you can quickly lock up the brakes, which would put your car into a skid as you lose all traction and steering capability. This is why you were always taught to “pump the brakes,” to keep them from locking up, but as the name implies, the anti-lock brake system keeps your brakes from locking up. The majority of an ABS-equipped brake system is the same as a non-ABS setup. There is still a master cylinder, brake booster, calipers, rotors, drums, etc. that function stop the vehicle as always. But with ABS there is a special valve is added that controls hydraulic pressure to the individual braking actuators at each wheel. Using wheel speed sensors (WSS), the controller anti-lock brake (CAB) or ABS controller monitors wheel speeds. While braking, if the CAB detects that a wheel is stopping too soon, it releases brake pressure to the actuator momentarily to keep the wheel from locking up and losing traction. Some ABS systems can pulse the brakes up to 15 times per second, far faster than the driver’s foot could hope to pump the brakes. The end result is that the brakes don’t lock up and tires maintain traction with the road, giving you the control needed to safely maneuver or stop. Driving Habits First, if you are driving a vehicle with ABS, take to heart that this type of safety technology is not a substitute for safe driving habits. In other words, your ABS brake system will not keep you from sliding off an icy road if you are driving too fast for the conditions. Physics will win because ABS can only do so much. ABS still relies on the tires having at least some traction. Always give yourself plenty of space to maneuver and brake, even more so at greater speeds or in times of poor road conditions. Second, when driving a vehicle with ABS, do not pump the brakes — ABS is already doing that for you. You will feel pulsation in the brake pedal and probably hear what sounds like grinding or buzzing from under the hood. You may also see warning lights on the dash and hear a warning alarm. Don’t panic, just keep your foot firmly on the brake pedal. Braking distance may or may not be improved, but steering and stopping control will be greatly enhanced. Once the emergency is over simply release the brake pedal and everything will go back to normal. A common argument in the early days of ABS adoption was that a driver could stop in a shorter distance if the brakes were allowed to lock up. But a vehicle with four locked up tires is no longer under control. Plus, locking up the tires creates flat spots that ruin them. And it is highly inadvisable to try and disable a working ABS system in an attempt to handle braking yourself better than the onboard computer. Perhaps the best way to get used to your ABS brake system is to test it out, preferably in an empty parking lot away from public roads. That way, you can get a feel for how your vehicle sounds and feels while the system is active and learn to trust that it will do the job as long as you are doing yours.
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How to Test Ignition Coil Failure
Ignition coils play a vital role in keeping your engine running. They provide the high voltage that gives the spark plugs their sparks. If they fail, you’ll know something’s wrong as the engine will run poorly. The sooner you can diagnose the problem and replace it with a new coil the better. Understanding their function, recognizing the warning signs, and knowing how to test ignition coil failure can help you avoid further damage and headaches down the road. Here’s how to test an ignition coil for proper operation. How Do Ignition Coils Work? Combustion engines, whether gas or diesel, need an energy catalyst to operate. Ignition coils use induction to turn the vehicle’s battery voltage into thousands of volts of current to produce a spark that ignites the compressed fuel inside the combustion chamber and sends the piston down. Some vehicles may have a single coil and distributor system, but most modern vehicles have dedicated coils for each piston. The setup varies by manufacturer. When everything is running well, coils work with spark plugs to deliver timely sparks for a smooth performance. However, coils can fail over time due to age, corrosion, heat damage, exposure to leaks, or worn spark plugs that cause the coils to wear faster. Effects Of Ignition Coil Failure A few things can happen if your coils start to fail. For one, your car might not start or might have a hard time starting due to a weak spark or lack of spark. You also might notice that while it runs, it misfires and runs rough, giving you a lugging or bucking feeling as you drive. That’s because (if you have a coil for each spark plug) you’ve got one cylinder that either isn’t combusting or only sometimes is, unbalancing the engine. As a side effect, that cylinder isn’t burning the fuel that enters it, so your gas mileage may suffer and you might notice black smoke from the exhaust.Running that rich fuel condition can cause backfires as unburnt fuel combusts inside the exhaust system rather than in the cylinder, and over time this can take a toll on your catalytic converter. At some point, your vehicle’s computer will figure out that something is wrong, even if you haven’t noticed anything out of the ordinary. That’s when you’ll see the check engine light illuminate. Scanning the vehicle for codes and taking time to diagnose these warning signs may point you in the direction of a possible bad ignition coil, if not several. If a trouble code has been stored it will likely be P0350 which means a malfunction of the ignition coil or its circuit. How To Test Ignition Coils As always, turn off your vehicle before unplugging wires, and be sure to take all possible safety precautions to avoid injury and shock. When chasing down an ignition problem the tricky part is picking out whether your problem is the ignition coil or the spark plug. For this ignition coil test use an inline spark tester between the spark plug and coil. This test will tell you whether the coil is passing on the electricity to generate the spark, but it won’t tell you how much. 1. Begin with the engine turned off.2. Identify the ignition coil you would like to test.3. Remove the spark plug wire (or coil-on-plug) from the spark plug.4. Install the inline spark tester between the spark plug terminal and the ignition coil output terminal.5. Start the engine and observe the inline spark tester. It should light up with each ignition spark.6. Shut off the engine.7. Remove the inline spark tester and install the spark plug wire (or coil-on-plug) back on to the spark plug. For vehicles with coil-on-plug ignitions and multiple coils packs you can try swapping around parts to see if the problem follows the part. This works mainly when an OBD diagnostic code has been stored which pinpoints an exact engine cylinder as the problem. For example, an error code P0351 denotes a problem with cylinder number one, while an error code P0352 denotes a problem with cylinder number two. 1. Begin with the engine turned off.2. Identify the ignition coil you would like to test based on diagnostic code.3. Remove the suspected faulty ignition coil.4. Identify an ignition coil from a cylinder which does not currently show a being faulty via diagnostic code.5. Remove the known good ignition coil.6. Install the known good ignition coil onto the cylinder which previously displayed a fault code.7. Install the suspected faulty ignition coil onto the cylinder which previously displayed no fault code.8. Start the engine and let it run for several minutes by taking a short drive.9. Rescan the ECU and look at any stored OBD codes. If there is now a stored error code for the cylinder which received the suspected faulty ignition coil, it is highly likely you have found the problem coil and should replace it. Here’s an example of how to how to check ignition coil packs. If an error code P0351 was stored (and no others) you would swap the ignition coil from cylinder one with the ignition coil from cylinder two. If rescanning the ECU now shows an an error code P0352 you’ve found your bad ignition coil. To get the final word on whether the coil testing, you can measure its resistance with a multimeter — check with the manufacturer for the required specs. Alternatively, you may simply opt to replace the coils and plugs, as long as you have them uninstalled. After all, they will need to be replaced at some point. Early diagnosis of a faulty ignition coil is important to avoiding greater damage. Keep an eye out for the signs of failure, and invest in a few easy-to-use tools to stay on top of it.
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Why Changing Spark Plugs Matters
Changing spark plugs is known to be a key part of routine maintenance, but why? Without properly functioning spark plugs, you can run into a wide range of problems, from poor driving performance to your car simply refusing to start. Here’s why changing spark plugs is important and how to know when it’s time to have your spark plugs replaced. What Do Spark Plugs Do? A spark plug does exactly what its name suggests: It’s responsible for creating the spark that an internal combustion engine needs to start and run. When electrical voltage is sent to a spark plug, that electricity arcs the small gap between the two electrodes at the firing end, igniting the compressed fuel-air mixture inside the cylinder. Without a spark plug, there’s no ignition. Without ignition, your engine won’t start or run. What Happens When a Spark Plug Goes Bad? Over time, soot deposits can form on the spark plugs. These deposits alter the timing of the spark, causing inefficient or unreliable performance. Another potential issue with spark plugs as they age is that the gap at the firing end can widen. Just as the accumulation of deposits alters the timing of the spark, so does a change in the size of the gap. If either of these issues becomes too great, your engine will suffer. The Benefits of Changing Spark Plugs Most manufacturers recommend changing spark plugs every 30,000 miles, but you may feel the need to do the job more frequently — or less — depending on your make and model and your vehicle’s performance. When you change them, you might see the following benefits: 1. Reduced Emissions and Better Fuel Economy: Spark plugs that have outlived their useful life don’t properly fire and can cause you to use more gas than necessary. Replacing them can improve your fuel economy and reduce your overall emissions.2. Smoother Starts: Worn spark plugs often cause slow or rough starts. Getting them replaced should eliminate this problem.3. Improved Performance: Malfunctioning spark plugs throw off the way your engine is designed to perform. When you replace your spark plugs, you may notice that your car feels more responsive.
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How to an Use OBD2 Scanner on Your Vehicle
Diagnosing modern vehicle issues means somehow talking to the onboard computer systems. These systems can perform in-depth vehicle diagnostics on the fly and store the results for retrieval later. Sometimes the diagnostics results mean the check engine light will turn on, while other times an issue may just get logged for future reference. Regardless of how the information is acquired, you will need a special tool to read the OBD codes. That’s when having an OBD2 scanner on hand makes sense. Here’s how to use OBD2 scanner tools on your car. Different OBD Scanner Types Back in the early days of onboard diagnostics, it wasn’t exactly easy to interface with the computer. In some cases, you had to insert a jumper wire across the access port, turn the ignition key in a special pattern and then count the number of times the “check engine light” flashed. Not exactly easy. True OBD scanners were the realm of dealership service departments. But things changed in the early 1990s when OBD2 became the national standard.Most OBD scanners you will come across now are actually code readers. They are designed to access the diagnostic code information stored by the onboard computer and display it to the user. It is a one-way street for the most part with the exception of having the ability to erase any stored diagnostic codes.Some OBD scanners are also diagnostic tools that can not only read stored diagnostics codes, but also communicate back to the onboard computer systems. For example, this Bosch OBD2 scanner is able to manually control components in order to test them. For example, it can open and close a drive-by-wire throttle body while the technician observes to make sure it is moving correctly. This is extremely handy when diagnosing an issue to help isolate components for testing. Unfortunately, a bidirectional OBD2 scanner requires deep understanding of how a certain vehicle’s computer operates. OBD scanners with two-way communication capability are often much more expensive than a simple code reader. How to Use an OBD2 Scanner: 7-Step Tutorial Using an OBD2 scanner is fairly straightforward. We recommend taking a few minutes to read over the instruction manual for your particular OBD2 scanner so you are familiar with the buttons and screen. 1. Locate the OBD port. Federal law requires that the OBD port be located within two feet of the steering wheel. It may be out in the open or behind a plug/cap/door. 2. Plug the OBD2 scanner into the OBD port. 3. Turn on the vehicle. For key start ignition vehicles, turn the ignition switch to the “on” position; it is not necessary to start the car. This puts the vehicle in “accessory” mode. For push-button start vehicles, refer to your owner’s manual for how to put the vehicle in “accessory” mode. 4. Once the vehicle is in “accessory” mode, the OBD2 scanner should begin communicating with the vehicle. 5. Following the instructions included with your particular OBD2 scanner, begin a code scan. This should only take a few minutes. 6. The OBD2 scanner will indicate if there are any stored codes found. Write down any fault codes so you can look them up later. 7. Once the OBD2 scanner has scanned the onboard computer, you may turn off the vehicle and unplug the scanner. Now that you know the fault codes, you can now begin to diagnose the problem. Luckily, OBD2 codes are mostly standardized across the industry, so a code P0030 for an oxygen sensor is the same whether you drive a Scion XB or a Nissan Titan. Decrypting the Code The two most common kinds of OBD fault code types you will find are pending and confirmed. A pending code means the onboard diagnostic system recorded an issue somewhere during its self-check procedure. If the issue does not occur again, the pending code will get erased from computer memory. A pending code will not cause the check engine light to illuminate. On the other hand, if an issue occurs again, it is then confirmed and stored as a fault code. A confirmed fault code will turn on the check engine light, alerting the driver that there is an issue. With Great Power Comes Great Responsibility Your OBD2 scanner will likely have the option to erase any stored trouble codes that are found. Use this option with caution. Wiping stored OBD codes also resets the emissions monitoring system. If you live in an area that requires an annual emissions test, the emissions monitoring system must be ready to pass. For the emissions system to be ready, it must have the ability to complete several different self-tests from catalytic converter function to fuel tank vapor recovery. Some of these tests are easy to complete, while others require certain conditions like a full fuel tank or a cold start. Wiping OBD2 codes is not a cure-all for a check engine light and could derail your next emissions test if you are on a tight deadline. The best course of action is to fix the problem that caused the error code and drive the vehicle normally. If the OBD2 system does not detect the issue again after a certain number of starts, the check engine light will go out on its own. Next Steps Now that you know how to use an OBD2 scanner, you are ready to tackle that check engine light. Simply head to your local Vdiagtool store or visit Vdiagtool online and pick up your own VD70S OBD2 car scanner. When you shop at participating Vdiagtool stores and on Vdiagtool online, make sure to take advantage of Vdiagtool Rewards. For every $1 you spend, you earn 1 Point. When you earn 100 Points, you get an automatic $5 off your next purchase. You can buy your new VD70S OBD2 scanner tool in several different ways. If using an OBD2 diagnostic scanner still seems impossible, your local NAPA Auto Care is ready to help. Their ASE-certified and trained technicians have all the best OBD2 scanner options at their fingertips along with the knowledge to use them. Once your vehicle is scanned, they can then help you decide the best course of action for repairs.
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3 Smart Tips For Brake Pad Replacement
Knowing when it’s time for a brake pad replacement can save you a significant amount of money when it comes to maintaining your car. It’s best to wait until they’ve served their last useful mile and you’ve received maximum value from each set, but if you go too long, you run the risk of damaging other brake components — not to mention hurting your car’s stopping power. Check out these three smart tips for knowing when to replace your brake pads. 1. Listen for the Squeal You’ve heard it before: a high-pitched squealing sound as a car, bus, or truck comes to a halt in front of you. Most brake pads have small metal tabs snugly fitted up against the side, and as the pad wears, the metal eventually comes into contact with the rotor and gives you that nails-against-the-chalkboard tone. That sound is one of the most obvious clues that it’s time to think about brake pad replacement, and if you hear it on your car, make an appointment to get your pads checked. 2. Brake Pad Light or Message A number of more modern cars have an electronic version of the metal tab, essentially a sensor that monitors when it’s time for brake pad replacement. Instead of a squealing sound, you get a light on your dash or a warning from the onboard computer that the time to swap in new pads has arrived. It’s a more civilized method, but make sure the sensors are working properly or you won’t get any warning at all. Have them evaluated by a mechanic each time you’re in the shop for brake pad replacement. 3. Be Alert The best-laid plans can sometimes go awry, which means you should be aware of any unusual behavior from your brake pads. If you feel vibrations, hear weird noises or experience a lack of stopping power while braking, it could be a sign that you need to head to the shop — even if there’s no other warning from your vehicle. Anything out of the ordinary is cause for concern when it comes to how your brakes feel out on the road. Don’t let a bad brake pad get you into a bad situation. If you suspect a problem, make it a priority to get it checked out. The experts are your local NAPA AutoCare Center can help you get to the bottom of any brake problem. Check out all the brake system parts available on NAPA Online or trust one of our 17,000 NAPA AutoCare locations for routine maintenance and repairs. For more information on brake pad replacement, chat with an expert at your local NAPA AUTO PARTS store. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons.
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